Takamatsu or Iya Valley?

Hello,

I am hoping to get feedback on this possible itinerary. I have never been to Shikoku but enjoy slower-paced travel and visiting places off the beaten path. This is my fifth visit to Japan and I don't have an international driver's license or the desire to drive there.

I would depart Tokyo on the overnight ferry and arrive in Tokushima the following afternoon. I am considering traveling either to Takamatsu or Awa-Ikeda (or some other station in or near Iya Valley) via train the day of arrival.

I am not sure which would make more sense. For those that have been to both or either areas, is the ritsurin garden in Takamatsu worth an overnight? This would be my main interest in visiting the city.

Other than the garden, I only know Takamatsu as the setting for Kafka on the Shore. Awa-Ikeda and other locales in the Iya Valley seem like they may be interesting, but attempting to visit both Takamatsu and the Iya Valley doesn't seem to make sense for this itinerary since it would require backtracking.

The Iya Valley seems beautiful and mysterious but somewhat out of the way and difficult to navigate. For those that have been, is there one community or inn accessible by train or bus you would recommend overnighting in? I am not interested in the rope bridges or other attractions but rather would enjoy staying at a remote inn or onsen in the mountains.

I would then travel on to Imabari after either overnighting in Takamatsu or spending one or two nights in the Iya Valley, and bike from Imabari to Ikuchijima to overnight, then on to Onomichi for the remainder of the day and take the shinkansen back to Tokyo.

Thanks to all in advance

The garden in Takamatsu is one of the best on Japan (and the world) and easier to reach.
I also went to Iya valley but by car. It’s nice, but it is much easier by car or potentially bicycle. So id say get your fix of nature when on the bike.
Takamatsu would also make a great base for Teshima, Naoshima, Shodoahima but you don’t seem to have the time.

The Iya Valley seems beautiful and mysterious but somewhat out of the way and difficult to navigate.
Isn't it precisely because it is difficult to access, that it remains beautiful and mysterious? :)

To be honest, the scenery was not particularly different from what I can find in Europe. But if you happen to love mountainous valleys in general, you will not regret your trip. So, if you find a nice inn or an onsen hotel that offers a shuttle from a nearby train station, I would say Iya Valley. Otherwise, Takamatsu.

is the ritsurin garden in Takamatsu worth an overnight

I found it impressive. There were some viewpoints from where I thought the landscape was beautiful, and I think the garden deserves its fame.

But overall, it was too big for me, and I am also not much fond of pine trees. I felt like I spent a lot time walking between big expanses of grass (not as bad as Okayama's Kōrakuen) and pine corridors. Not enough benches to sit down, and enjoy the view of the south part of the garden. (I am certainly in the minority here, as most people loved that garden)

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Another option for nature and mountains: the areas surrounding the Tokushima line. For a future trip, I am considering stopping around Kawata Station. For example, there are a few villages around the "Misato Firefly Museum" that look easily accessible by bus.

We went to Risturin during the 2023 cherry blossom season, it was stunning.

It is quite big, so you will enjoy it more if you are comfortable walking. There was a couple of places to eat throughout and also a big gift shop, which I appreciated. During our visit we used (sun) umbrellas they provided, I don't remember now whether we paid for them or if they were complimentary.

Enjoy your time in Japan!

There are not so many remote ryokans in Iya valley and it is also not sooo big. the problem is reaching it. if you are there, you can cover all the spots easily (onsen, bridges (which is think are still work looking) and the valley itself) sinec all is in vicinity.

takamatsu is nice and well worth a stay there. it is not only about the Ritsurin garden (which is one of the nicest in japan) but you may also check Shikoku Village, Takamatsushi Ishinominzoku Museum and the not so known Isamu Noguchi Garden. And dont forget to eat Sanuki Udon there!

Takamatsu has a lot more than just the garden (which is very good), and also provides a base if you wanted to add a day trip to Naoshima.
For Iya Valley, when I last planned this out it was from Tokyo and heading to Oboke Station where the shuttle for the ryokan I was going to use would pick us up. Then time in the area using one of the local tour operators to see the various sights. (COVID killed the trip, so we didn't go).
However, having travelled to many places I don't expect the scenery to be much different to other places that I have been in Shikoku or southern Honshu. Yes, it might be more remote, but as you say, this is visit #5 and you will know what the scenery of Japan is like from previous travels.

Thank you all for your helpful feedback!

After a bit more research, it seems like it is relatively easy to do both by taking the train from Tokushima to Takamatsu after arriving by ferry and spending the late afternoon through the following morning there. Then traveling down to Oboke and doing the gorge, and staying at a promising looking nearby inn perched on a nearby hillside that I came across. Then traveling on to Imabari the following morning and onward (for some reason I thought I would have to take the train all the way back to Takamatsu to transfer on toward Imabari but that's not the case). It seemed like a bit of a waste to only spend one night on Shikoku proper after such a long ferry ride there, so I am please I will be able to check out the valley.

Ritsuren Garden in Takamatsu is exceptional and well worth a visit. I can also recommend a trip to Naoshima Island (the "art island") via ferry from Takamatsu harbour. My wife and I went there in May 2024, full details here:
http://www.paulkilfoil.co.za/2024.aspx