Bessho Onsen

Bessho Onsen (別所温泉) is a small hot spring town just outside of central Ueda City in Nagano Prefecture. During the Kamakura Period (1192-1333), it served as the headquarters of the governor of the Shinshu Region (today's Nagano Prefecture), who built temples and brought Kamakura culture to the mountain town. This made Bessho Onsen into a prosperous center of education and religion, and in turn earned the town the nickname "Kamakura of Shinshu".

Bessho Onsen is the oldest recorded hot spring in the region. Its sulfurous waters have long been regarded for their healing properties and are said to have healed the arrow wounds of warriors who bathed in them. There are three small traditional public bath houses found around town that offer visitors a chance to experience the atmosphere of a small neighborhood hot spring bath. For larger baths and more amenities, head to the Aisome no Yu public bath house at the entrance of the town.

Bessho Onsen is a compact town that is easily explored on foot. Its temples are found along the wooded slopes surrounding the town, and are connected with the town center by narrow streets and lanes lined by small shops, restaurants and ryokan. All of Bessho Onsen's attractions can be reached in a ten to fifteen minute walk from Bessho Onsen Station.

Temples

Anrakuji Temple

Hours: 8:00 to 17:00 (until 16:00 from November to February)
Closed: No closing days
Admission: 300 yen (an English pamphlet is available for a small fee)

Anrakuji is the oldest standing Zen Temple in the region, and at its peak it was a center of learning and culture. The highlight of Anrakuji is its wooden octagonal pagoda built in the Chinese Song architectural style during the Kamakura Period (1192-1333). The pagoda is the only example of its kind left in Japan and is designated as a national treasure.
Kitamuki Kannon Temple

Hours: 7:00 to 16:00
Closed: No closing days
Admission: Free

Kitamuki Kannon Temple's main object of worship is a statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. While temples in Japan usually face south, Kitamuki Kannon faces north, directly facing the Buddha statue at Zenkoji Temple in Nagano City. Kitamuki Kannon (lit. north-facing Kannon) is also unusual in that she is said to answer prayers for this life rather than the next.
Jorakuji Temple

Hours: 7:00 to 16:00 (museum from 9:00)
Closed: No closing days (museum closed from late Dec to mid Feb)
Admission: Free (museum: 500 yen)

Jorakuji is related to the Kitamuki Kannon Temple. It was built by Jikaku Daishi, a Buddhist priest of the Tendai Sect and head priest at Enryakuji Temple in Kyoto. Jorakuji Temple has a thatched roof, which is unusual for a temple, and a small art museum that includes ema (wooden plaques) painted by the famous artist Hokusai.

Hot spring baths

Oyu

Hours: 6:00 to 22:00
Closed: First and third Wednesday of each month
Admission: 200 yen

Oyu (Large Hot Spring) is the largest of the traditional public baths in Bessho Onsen, as its name suggests. Oyu has a relatively large indoor bath and an outdoor bath for each gender, whereas Ishiyu and Daishiyu (see below) only have one indoor bath per gender.
Daishiyu

Hours: 6:00 to 22:00
Closed: First and third Thursday of each month
Admission: 200 yen

This small public bath is named Daishiyu (Great Teacher Hot Spring) after Jikaku Daishi, who is said to have bathed in its waters during the construction of the Kitamuki Kannon Temple. It features one indoor bath for each gender.
Ishiyu

Hours: 6:00 to 22:00
Closed: Second and fourth Tuesday of each month
Admission: 200 yen

The gender separated indoor baths of Ishiyu ("Stone Bath") have large stones set in the water from which hot water gushes forth to fill the baths.
Aisome no Yu

Hours: 10:00 to 22:00 (entry until 21:20)
Closed: 2nd and 4th Monday every month (except national holidays)
Admission: 500 yen

Aisome no Yu is a modern hot spring complex built just down the street from Bessho Onsen Station. This bath house is much larger than the traditional baths listed above, and has multiple indoor baths and an outdoor bath for each gender, as well as saunas, hot stone baths (ganbanyoku), massage services and relaxation space.

From Tokyo

Take the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Ueda Station (95 minutes, about 6500 yen, 1-3 trains per hour), one stop before Nagano, and transfer to the Ueda Railway to Bessho Onsen (30 minutes, 590 yen, departures every 30 minutes), the terminal station on the line. The Japan Rail Pass is valid between Tokyo and Ueda, but does not cover the train between Ueda and Bessho Onsen.

From Nagano

Take the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Nagano Station to Ueda Station (15 minutes, 1470 yen by unreserved seat, two departures per hour) and transfer to the Ueda Railway to Bessho Onsen (30 minutes, 590 yen, departures every 30 minutes), the terminal station on the line. The Japan Rail Pass is valid between Nagano and Ueda, but does not cover the train between Ueda and Bessho Onsen.

Alternatively, take the Shinano Railway between Nagano and Ueda (45 minutes, 780 yen, two to three departures per hour) and transfer to the Ueda Railway to Bessho Onsen. The Japan Rail Pass is not valid on either the Shinano Railway or the Ueda Railway.

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English

Ueda Railway

Official English PDF file.

Bessho Onsen

Temples

Hot spring baths

Getting there and around

From Tokyo

From Nagano

Links and Resources

English

Ueda Railway

Japanese

Ueda City

Bessho Onsen Tourist Association

Ueda Railway

Anrakuji Temple

Kitamuki Kannon Temple

Jorakuji Temple

Aisome no Yu