Tomonoura (鞆の浦) is a port town at the southern end of Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture. Situated at a bay facing the Seto Inland Sea, the picturesque port town features an endearing old-fashioned fishing townscape, with a calm and laid-back atmosphere. Tomonoura is part of the Setonaikai National Park.
Tomonoura prospered in the olden days of sail boats, when merchant ships traveling along the Seto Inland Sea would dock at its port while waiting for a favorable tide. The town center flourished with the bustling sea activity, leading to thriving industries such as the production of "homeishu", a medicinal liquor of shochu and 16 types of herbs, said to promote longevity.
In recent years, Tomonoura has been picked as a filming location for several international and local movies, such as "The Wolverine" starring Hugh Jackman and "Ponyo on the Cliff" by the popular Studio Ghibli. The port town portrayed in the beginning of "Ponyo on the Cliff" was modeled after Tomonoura.
Old town center
The old town center of Tomonoura has many photogenic alleys lined by rustic old houses with wooden facades. There are a few shops selling homeishu, the local medicinal liquor. The bayfront area is littered with small boats, demonstrating the port's continuing relevancy. Here are some attractions around the town center:
Joyato Lighthouse
The Joyato Lighthouse was built during the Edo Period (1603-1868) and is a symbol of Tomonoura. The eleven meter tall structure stands prominently at the waterfront directly south of the town center.
Ota Residence
Hours: 10:00 to 17:00 (entry until 16:30) Closed: Tuesdays (or next day if Tues is a holiday), Dec 29 to Jan 3 Admission: 400 yen
The spacious Ota Residence belonged to a family who started brewing homeishu in the late 17th century. From 1710 to the onset of the Meiji Period, the family flourished as it was granted the monopoly over homeishu production. The residence was later sold when business took a downturn, but its new owner preserved many features of the buildings. Today, visitors can view the residence's multiple tatami mat rooms, tea rooms and homeishu storehouses.
Irohamaru Museum
Hours: 10:00 to 16:30 Closed: December 28 to January 1 Admission: 200 yen
Irohamaru was the name of a merchant ship that sank in 1867, prominent because the important historical figure Sakamoto Ryoma was on board at the time. More than a hundred years later, residents from Tomonoura discovered the wreckage and retrieved artifacts and parts of the ship, which are exhibited at the Irohamaru Museum today. The museum also informs about Ryoma and relating stories about him but unfortunately lacks explanations in English.
Museum of History and Folklore
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (entry until 16:30) Closed: Mondays (or next day if Mon is a holiday), Dec 28 to Jan 3 Admission: 150 yen
The Tomonoura Museum of History and Folklore provides information about the industries of Tomonoura and historical events that took place at the town. It displays exhibits relating to the daily life of the local people, such as festival floats, models of merchant ships and artifacts of the former Tomo Castle. The museum is only somewhat interesting with little English information.
Pier
A stroll along the bay is refreshing with good views of the town and the sea. At the eastern corner of the bay there is a long pier that offer nice views of the town and coastal scenery.
Temples and shrines
A wealth of temples and shrines surround the town center, remaining today both as reminders of Tomonoura's heritage and as local attractions. Some of the town's best views can be seen at some of these places of worship:
Fukuzenji Temple
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (from 8:00 on weekends and public holidays) Closed: No closing days Admission: 200 yen
Fukuzenji Temple offers the most famous view at Tomonoura: nearby Bentenjima and Sensuijima islands through the temple's veranda. As a side note, the temple also houses a statue of Maria Kannon, who is Virgin Mary made to look like the Buddhist Bodhisattva Kannon during the Edo Period, when Christianity was banned in Japan and Christians had to practice their religion in secret.
Enpukuji Temple
Hours: Always open Closed: No closing days Admission: Free
Enpukuji Temple was relatively recently constructed around 1600 on the hilltop location of a former castle. The castle served as a base for the Southern Court forces during the struggle for power between the two imperial courts in the 14th century.
Ioji Temple
Hours: Always open Closed: No closing days Admission: Free
Nostalgic stone and earthen walls with tiled roofs guard the temple grounds of Ioji, from where good views of the bay area of Tomonoura can be seen. A 15 minute ascent up the hill behind the main temple building leads to the Taishiden hall, from where even better views looking onto the bay can be enjoyed.
Nunakuma Shrine
Hours: Always open Closed: No closing days Admission: Free
Nunakuma Shrine consists of two shrines which are respectively dedicated to deities of the sea; marine safety was obviously very important to Tomonoura's success as a port town. Nunakuma Shrine features an old noh stage.
Ankokuji Temple
Hours: 8:00 to 17:00 Closed: No closing days Admission: 150 yen
Ankokuji Temple was founded during the Kamakura Period (1192-1333). It houses a couple of designated national treasures and important works, such as a wooden statue of Amida Buddha and a stone statue of a sitting Jizo Bodhisattva. The temple compound spots an interesting selection of tropical plants.
Getting there and around
How to get to Tomonoura
Tomonoura is best accessed from Fukuyama Station by buses that run every 20-30 minutes. There are no English signs, so look out for buses bound for Tomo Port (鞆港, Tomokō) at bus stop number 5 just in front of the station exit. It takes about 30 minutes and costs 530 yen to get to the Tomonoura (鞆の浦) bus stop next to the visitor center, and 35 minutes and 560 yen to get to the Tomo Port bus stop where buses turn around and make the return trip. Besides cash, IC cards, including Suica, Pasmo, and Icoca, are accepted on these buses.
The attractions of Tomonoura are within distances from the bus stops that can be comfortably covered on foot. Rental bicycles are an alternative. There is a rental outlet next to the terminal from where the ferries to Sensuijima Island depart, but note that it is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Bicycles cost 500 yen per day.
